Cooktops, heaters and gas lines installed, tested and certified. On a larger property the run from the meter sets the sizing as much as the appliance does.
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Gas pipe is sized for two things: the appliance at the end of it, and the distance it has to travel to get there.
On a compact block that second factor is close to irrelevant. On a larger property it is not. A long run needs a larger diameter to deliver the same pressure at the appliance, so distance is doing as much to set the specification as the appliance itself.
That has two consequences. The obvious one is cost: more pipe and more labour. The less obvious one is capacity, because a run sized for what was on it years ago frequently has less headroom than people assume when they want to add something.
So we measure and work it out before anything is ordered, rather than discovering it partway through an installation.
Leave the building, touch no switches, turn the meter off only if it is safely on your way, and ring from outside.
Open the building up so air can move through it, then get everybody outside, then call. Do not touch anything that makes or breaks an electrical circuit on the way.
Turning the supply off at the meter is worth doing when the meter is easy to reach from where you already are.
Ring us from outdoors and a licensed fitter will answer. If it is a job for the network's emergency crew rather than for a plumber, we will say so straight away.
A long run needs a larger diameter to deliver the same pressure at the appliance. Gas pressure falls along a length of pipe and the drop grows with both distance and demand.
On a larger property the run from the meter to the appliance is genuinely long, which makes sizing a real calculation rather than a formality.
Undersized pipe is the reason an appliance works fine alone and poorly when something else is running.
The existing run was sized for what was on it at the time, not for what you want to add. That is not a criticism of the original work, it is simply what sizing means.
The line has a capacity and so does the meter, and a new appliance has to fit inside both with everything else still running.
Where it does not, appliances starve each other, and a burner that drops off whenever somebody runs a shower is nearly always this.
Working it out before anything is ordered avoids discovering it partway through the installation, which is the expensive version of the same conversation.
The input rating on the appliance plate is the number the calculation runs on, stated in megajoules per hour. A photograph of it is enough to start.
It decides the pipe size, and the pipe size decides the route and therefore the price.
Around an obstacle rather than under it, along an existing service trench, or a longer path through easier ground frequently costs less than the shortest line.
On a large property with driveways, paving and established garden, what is above the route matters as much as how far it runs.
So a per-metre figure is an estimate rather than a price, and a real quote comes from somebody having walked it.
Every outdoor gas appliance has required clearances to combustible material, and a flue terminal has required distances from windows, doors and vents.
A shrub thickens, a hedge closes in, a screen goes up. Nobody decides to encroach on a clearance and it happens anyway over several seasons.
It is the most common non-fault we find on planted properties, and the fix is usually secateurs and ten minutes.
An unflued gas heater discharges into the room it is heating, which is how it works and why they are not permitted in a bedroom or a bathroom.
A lounge becomes a bedroom, a sunroom becomes a spare room, a garage gets closed in. The heater does not move and nobody reconsiders it.
That is how a legal installation from decades ago ends up somewhere it is no longer allowed, without anybody having done anything wrong.
Worth resolving rather than living with, particularly before a sale. A working appliance tells you nothing about the connection behind it.
Where nothing can be found, we can inspect and test the current installation and certify what exists, which is a different document from the original but a genuinely useful one.
Where the work turns out to be non-compliant, we will say so plainly and tell you what it would take to put right.
The pipe is sized for how far it runs and how much it has to carry. The line is tested to pressure. The appliance goes in to its own instructions with the clearances they specify. The flue discharges where the standard says.
By the time you are cooking on it, all of that is inside a wall or behind a cupboard.
So the paperwork is not administrative overhead. It is the only surviving record of work you cannot go back and look at.
Legally required, issued by the licensed gasfitter, and the only durable proof that the work behind your walls was done by somebody entitled to do it.
Keep it with the property papers. It is what an insurer asks for after an incident and what a conveyancer eventually asks for at sale.
On a long buried run it is also the only record of where the pipe actually went, which matters the next time anybody digs.
Fixed price agreed before anything starts. These are indicative 2026 ranges, and a longer run sits toward the upper end for reasons we will explain rather than simply charge for.
The installation pressure tested, with a written result.
Connected, tested and certified, with the certificate handed over.
Sized for the run as well as the appliance, which on a long one matters.
Installed and certified, sized properly rather than for convenience.
Legally required, and included on every gas job without being asked.
From the meter to where the appliance is going. That sets the sizing and a good part of the price.
Particularly where you are adding to a run that was sized years ago for something smaller.
Installed and commissioned properly, sized for the distance as well as the appliance.
Issued on the spot, and worth filing with the house papers.
Leave the building first, then ring us from outside. Do not touch a switch on the way out.
Call 1300 381 569Because gas pipe has to be sized for the appliance at the end of it and for the distance it travels. A long run needs a larger diameter to deliver the same pressure, so on a bigger property the distance from the meter is doing as much to set the specification as the appliance is. It is also, straightforwardly, more pipe and more labour.
Sometimes, and it is worth checking rather than assuming. Adding an appliance is a capacity question: the existing pipe was sized for what was on it at the time. On a long run there is frequently less headroom than people expect, so we work it out before anything is ordered.
Get everyone outside first. Do not touch any switch, do not use a phone indoors, and if the meter is safely on your way out, turn it off. Then ring from outside.
The document a licensed gasfitter issues certifying the work was done to standard. It is legally required and it is the only durable record the job was done properly. Keep it with the house papers, because insurers ask for it and so does a conveyancer at sale.
It is worth resolving rather than wondering about. We can pressure test the installation and tell you plainly what state it is in, which costs very little against what it settles, particularly before a sale.
No. Gas is licensed work in NSW with no exemption for a small job or a capable owner. Unlicensed work cannot be certified, voids a home insurance claim, and leaves nothing on record showing it was ever safe.
A leak test on the installation is $150 to $300. A cooktop connected and certified is $250 to $500. A new gas point run and certified is $450 to $1,200, and on a longer run it sits toward the upper end for the reasons above. A heater bayonet is $300 to $600.
Tell us what you want fitted and roughly how far it is from the meter. On a larger property that distance is a real part of the answer.
Sized for the run, capacity checked before adding, and the certificate issued as standard.
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